Yellow buses are the best way to see the city’s sights at a leisurely pace.
“Take number one to Funchal centre and number two back.” Our holiday advisor’s words about local yellow buses stuck in my mind as we waited at the bus stop. “Not to be confused with open-topped double-decker buses, which are also yellow,” he warned. They go to tourist locations and are more expensive due to the use of personal audio equipment, which provides sightseeing information.
The first bus was packed, but there was plenty of room on the next, and Mr Word Loft and I arrived at our destination ten minutes later.
I was captivated as soon as we left the bus – the Atlantic Ocean to the right, with a jingling harbour at the fore. The wind was fresh, and the metallic sound of sailing boats’ rigging always pleases me. The hillside ahead, with its idyllic Madeiran houses that I had come to adore since arriving on the island, was radiant, looking out over cobalt waves.
Eager to find the inside market we had heard so much about, we followed our instincts towards spires, towers and other historic structures, and found the Mercado dos Lavradores situated in a grand Art Deco-style hall. Unfortunately, it was closed due to a Portuguese bank holiday that we hadn’t been aware of.
Outside the main entrance was a cheery, grey-haired woman wearing the nation’s traditional costume. I was quite delighted, as I remembered the outfit from the dolls I had collected from around the world when I was a child. She spoke animatedly to passersby, her red, floral-embroidered waistcoat and multi-striped skirt blending with the flowers and brightly labelled packages of bulbs on her stall. Pink amaryllis, orange montbretia, purple agapanthus, to name a few, but most wonderful of all were plugs of infant Bird of Paradise plants. Very enticing.
Streets in the historic quarter are lively. Shops sell textiles in Portuguese colours of red, green, yellow, white and blue, the same as the flower seller’s skirt. Cafés and bars, tables and chairs spill onto vibrant thoroughfares. Doors and walls are painted in unique artwork, inspired by the Painted Door Project, which was formed as a way of giving that part of town a boost.
Following a map in our guidebook, we came across a concrete waterway adorned with trailing plants. Water is supplied by levadas, directing rain down smaller channels from the mountains.
Onto the cathedral. Its bells have a tinkling musical quality: we sat on a bench in the national monument’s shadow. Although disappointed that the late 15th-century structure was also shut for the day, the chimes were soothing as we planned to return to see its treasures, exemplary ceiling and magnificent altar. Sadly, we never did get around to it.
A short walk away is a black and white square surrounded by official buildings. At the head is City Hall. The palace was erected in 1758, and through open windows, applause escalated. I thought an important event must have been in progress as I admired the chandeliers sparkling like crystal umbrellas. Originally, it was the Count of Carvalhal’s residence and encapsulates a charming courtyard.
Beside the palace is the Museum of Sacred Art on one side and opposite that, the Jesuit College and Church. Both of which have appealing stories, history, and architecture.
It seems you can’t go very far in Madeira without coming across a park. Perhaps that is why it is known as the Island of Flowers in the Atlantic. Jardim Municipal was a welcome discovery. A main feature near the entrance is a small amphitheatre, and there is a multitude of statues within secluded glades. The pathways meander around flowerbeds and ancient trees in a natural way.
The beauty spot’s highlight, though, is a water feature reminiscent of gushing geysers – the spray quite refreshing. And on the lake, ducks thought so, too, as they rested on the muddy banks within range of them.
It is a tranquil oasis, and was the ideal location for relaxation before catching the bus back to our hotel.
Find out about our Jeep escapades in my next blog post.
Until then, best wishes
Sue. X