It was a decisive “Yes, let’s go,” from me when Rame Head was suggested as a location for an afternoon stomp. The wild and dramatic landscape was one of the first Cornish places I visited before relocating from Kent decades ago. At seven months pregnant, I was bigger than I am now and the trudge up to the summit to see the enchanting medieval chapel was arduous. It was worth it, and since living in the county, I’ve been back on myriad occasions.
The buffeting wind was exhilarating. We tried to secure our jackets as it whipped around us, and it soon became evident that my trip to the hairdressers that morning was a wasted episode.
On approach, the headland and chapel rise in the distance with the sun turning the sea platinum behind them. Mr Word Loft and I strode behind the two younger members of our party. We stopped frequently to take in the panoramic views of the craggy coastline, verdant glazed cliffs, and waves crashing below as they sparkled deep turquoise and rushed over the sand.
At the top, the historical landmark of St Michael’s Chapel is small but full of character. Inside is peaceful and candles have been placed on high stone alcoves in memory of loved ones. Arched windows of the ancient hermitage look out over three aspects facing the western approaches, so it’s no wonder the structure doubled up as a lighthouse centuries ago. The bonfires lit there by the priest or custodian as warning beacons must have been reassuring to mariners.
The site proved excellent in the Great War, and World War Two, when guns were erected outside for the defence against forthcoming enemies. The austere concrete base jars with the place’s charm, but are a curious part of its history.
It is on the South West Coast Path, so well-frequented. Standing in the chapel’s doorway before heading back, I scanned the heathland; the autumnal shades are stunning. Shrubs of warm mellow brown, the foliage crispy, whispered pleasantly in the breeze as we brushed by.
Across the terrain is the National Coastguard Institution Station. The building with aerials rocketing from its roof appears snug when glimpsing the interior. It enjoys a superior observational spot and is one of fifty around the British Isles helping to protect life around our shores.
We couldn’t resist browsing the pre-loved paperbacks for sale outside its main door before going back to the car and heading off to Cawsand to find a café serving hot drinks.
Until next time,
Sue. X