That’s the last for this year. I refer to overnight stays in our campervan, Ivy. Most campsites are closed from now until spring, which makes sense with the chillier days and nights. We’ll still go out for day trips, but back to our weekend in Slapton Sands and Torcross. Most likely, you heard about the region at the beginning of the year on the news, when Storm Ingrid caused devastation there.
Mr Word Loft and I arrived and were instantly delighted by the rural location and its amenities. We chose a pitch with sea views, near bathroom facilities. Squirrels foraged for conkers, and at night rabbits hopped here and there. The crows cawed a dawn chorus, a soothing welcome and a reminder to get up to make the most of our days. They were also quite comical to watch as they pecked and strutted around like pompous butlers.
From the site, we trekked downhill to the glittering sea, passing the end of Slapton Ley, a large lake and nature reserve. We spent a few minutes near the ochre shingle beach taking in a tall stone memorial. Presented to the people of South Hams who left their homes so the area could be used as a practice ground, enabling forces to carry out a triumphant D-Day landing in Normandy during WW2.
Regrettably, two hundred meters of Devon’s A379 were closed to motor vehicles due to sections ravaged by Storm Ingrid. We slipped through a pedestrian gateway onto ghostly tarmac and joined others strolling or cycling to and from Torcross.
The panorama beyond Start Bay to the English Channel, and over to Slapton Ley, is idyllic. Freshwater drains from land, forming the lake, the greatest in the South West. Rushes shush in the breeze, wildflowers bejewel trails, and bird calls resonate through the hedgerow. Ahead, Start Lighthouse beckons from a clifftop in the distance.
It was meant to be a forty-minute walk, but with so much to admire, it took longer. We followed a footpath; metal barricades and high red-and-white barriers were where the road and a car park used to be. Signs declare Torcross open and advertise local hospitality businesses.
Opposite, Slapton Ley View Point remains intact and ideal for resting weary legs while glimpsing wildlife. White birds skimmed the nature reserve’s ripples, and across the water I envied the occupants of homes who were lucky to see the precious flora and fauna every day.
In contrast to the peaceful countryside, I was surprised to come across a Sherman Tank with poppy wreaths laid against its front plate, standing on a rock-edged terrace. Sadly, I learnt it is a tribute to hundreds of servicemen who lost their lives when under German torpedo boat attack during the Tiger training exercise.
My heart went out to the people residing along the promenade whose premises were wrecked by the elements. But the village remains picturesque, with a powerful sense of community.
By the end of our jaunt, we had built up quite an appetite. Culinary aromas wafting from the thatched-roofed Start Bay Inn drew us in, where we savoured hearty food and spent a pleasant hour or two before heading back to Ivy.
Until next time,
Sue. X