It was a thrilling and bracing trip. Our driver collected Mr Word Loft and me from our hotel to see the north-west of Madeira. ‘Inspired by Nature, True Spirit, Just Feel It’ was the jeep company’s slogan, and we did. Other passengers were already aboard and were excellent company throughout the day.
The driver/guide was keen to give everyone a memorable experience. Air conditioning meant rolling back the roof with the wind billowing through our hair, and a back massage was delivered by juddering over rutted tracks and rough ground.
First stop, Ponta do Sol. Our jeep waited by one of the island’s tunnels, while we walked along the coastline, where a brick-constructed archway over part of the sea leads to a pier. Underneath, waves churn over jagged rocks, and above, ginger and paprika coloured strata run through the cliffs.
The bay is a mish-mash of buildings painted in shades of the rainbow, and floral garlands in red, yellow and green loop from palm tree to palm tree. With straw parasols dotted along the beach, it is a vibrant and charismatic location.
After a short stay, it was back to our adventures. Past vineyards and banana plantations growing on stepped terraces overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. Most of which were formed over hundreds of years by many generations.
The higher we travelled, the more mysterious the terrain became. Clouds masked our destination. We drove through the gossamer layers to fields and woodland, providing a mystical element as we approached Fanal Forest, famous for its ancient Laurel trees, some of which are 800 years old or more. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and greenness and tranquillity emanate from the land.
It reminded me of a Middle-Earth landscape from The Lord of the Rings. Picnic tables are positioned in the shadow of the majestic trees, where it would have been appealing to sit and soak up the ambience a little longer, but our transport was waiting to take us to Seixal.
The resort is situated on a black sand beach on a lava plateau and is a striking coastline, with the deep blue sea, flashed with gold. It was suggested that the group might like to swim, either in the sea, where a waterfall gushes down a rockface. Or there is a vast natural rock pool, with a café at its edge.
The waters are framed by weather-sculpted olive trees. Mr Word Loft and I thought it was a much better idea to sit sipping iced coffee and watch swimmers and paddleboarders glide by. Diners beside us tucked into tempting fish dishes, but we were booked for lunch at our next venue, a few miles away.
Further up the mountainside, a woman waved at our driver to turn right. The timber cabin restaurant, nestled in a coppice, is exclusive to the tour operator. Hunger was kept at bay with a grilled chorizo-type sausage, garlic and herb pitta toast until mains were served. Sizzling skewered beef, potatoes and salad – I ate every morsel. The passion fruit dessert was tangy, and it was great to see the fruits growing on the vine nearby.
Afterwards, we remained on muddy trails for a short period, surrounded by wild countryside. Eventually, we rejoined the winding main route and encountered a waterfall cascading over the road. It was a refreshing shower as we passed by, where our driver slowed down beneath it before continuing to the final destination.
The Honey Museum. A grand title for such a small establishment. Outside, the walls are decorated yellow to fit in with its theme. Inside, the space is alive with the tantalising zing of honey, lemon and rum, where the guide demonstrated how to make Poncha, a traditional Madeiran cocktail. I wasn’t keen on the taste, but everyone else seemed impressed, including Mr Word Loft, and it made a splendid conclusion to our jeep escapade.
Until my next blog post about our series of ups and downs.
Best wishes, Sue. X