It’s breathtaking, and that’s not an exaggeration. Whenever I reach the path’s end from Carnewas car park and see Bedruthan’s view, I breathe in and stare in awe across the headland. It’s a popular spot, but for some reason, I didn’t discover it until a few years ago, although I had heard of it when I owned a gift and art shop and sold local artists’ oil paintings showing Bedruthan’s stacks and yellow sands. Beautiful artwork, but the location’s energy never captured on canvas.
When out and about recently, I’ve frequented moorland, towns, and manor houses. All very inspiring, but the power of the waves, limitless skies and dramatic coastlines are alluring. There are plenty close to us, but Mr Word Loft and I fancied a change, so drove a little deeper into Cornwall.
After our usual “wows” on first surveying the much-loved seascape again, we headed toward Park Head along the South West Coast Path. Whatever the season, there is always a wealth of wildflowers. Pink sea thrift in spring makes a lovely splash of colour against the backdrop of blues and greys. But on this occasion, yarrow, purple betony, and what I think might be golden samphire harmonize with the setting.
Striding down wide stone steps it’s exhilarating to feel the wind as you hike by the stacks which have island names. One of the formations is pierced with a small opening giving glimpses of turquoise water. Normally, when walking on the sands below, the rocks’ immense size is astounding, but the beach is inaccessible at present because of rock falls.
Further on at Pentire Steps, white and aquamarine foam spirals through a natural rock arch which is part of Diggory’s Island. The craggy mass intrigues me with its grassy top. A tiny sliver of the mainland, home to coastal birds, mussels and other wildlife.
Along the clifftop, a few new ventures have sprung up since we visited before Covid-19. A pine-clad kiosk called Stacks, selling snacks, ice cream and drinks, and an innovative campsite with tipis that look inviting. They add a different element to the landscape, and no doubt offer an alternative experience to traditional camping in Cornwall.
I don’t remember seeing cattle roaming there before either, but they made a surreal picture with the ocean sparkling behind them, though a tad frisky for my liking. Luckily, we were nearing the walk’s end, so we clambered over a gate and tramped back to the car by road, presenting another chance to see the tipis from another angle – and oh, how I wished I could have peeped inside.
Until next time,
Sue. X