At last. That’s another travel wish fulfilled, and on this occasion to Bath, Somerset. It’s only a few hours’ drive from home, but it could be thousands of miles away. The unique surroundings reminded me of those overseas.
Going for a quick look around on the first evening, I was delighted by the route Mr Word Loft and I came across. Rivers always attract me and the Avon was no different as it glittered and roved under the setting sun. We followed its course from the promenade beside Parade Gardens leading down to it.
My ears pricked with the sound of gushing water. The V-shaped weir was the reason; an impressive sight as it arrows towards Pulteney Bridge. Strung with shops above its triple arches, the neat Georgian structure has similarities to Florence’s Medieval Vecchio Bridge, and the Rialto Bridge in Venice. All have businesses built along them.
On that short walk, and after buying a tourist guide, we noted several more places for investigation over the following days.
Topping & Company Booksellers of Bath is an essential stop-off and in the Abbey Quarter where we stayed. I came across books by illustrator, Angie Lewin, an artist I’ve only just learnt about. I bought a couple of her titles along with two novels by Jane Austen, set locally. Northanger Abbey was written while she lived there, and Persuasion, nine years after she moved away.
It seemed natural to go to the Jane Austen Centre next, and passing the abundance of elegant Regency buildings with smooth moulded cream walls on the way, set the mood.
The house in Gay Street, where the exhibition resides is similar to the author’s home. The displays concentrate on her five years living in the city and how it and the social scene of the early 1800s influenced her stories.
The tour guide delivers a brief history of the Austen family before everyone is shown the displays from the era. I particularly loved the replica haberdashery shop, and being given the chance to sit at an old-fashioned bureau to write with a quill and ink, even though my attempt was scratchy and blotted.
There is a themed tearoom there, but it was full. We hadn’t realised we needed to book a table beforehand, so found another café nearby before heading to Parade Gardens.
After being inside on a sweltering summer’s day, we fancied being outdoors before going to a restaurant to celebrate our wedding anniversary.
The park was ideal for a rest and people-watching. It proved to be a romantic spot, too, as we saw two wedding groups posing for photographs by the creatively designed flowerbeds, mature trees and plants.
On to the highlight of our stay. The Roman Baths. I can’t recall when I first became aware of them. It seems like forever and they didn’t disappoint. Popular with pilgrims and residents 2000 years ago, the sacred springs were captured and retained by the Romans with another of their ingenious feats of engineering.
Today throngs of people gather to see the thermal mineral waters collected in the classical pools. All presided over by the goddess, Sulis Minerva. The water is clear, but algae, heat and daylight tint it olive-green. Samples are offered straight from the spa’s source. I gingerly sipped some, but it didn’t taste of anything special.
As well as a social hub, the baths cleansed and were believed to heal numerous ailments. Many artefacts and belongings have been found; some collected from the drainage. Cameos engraved into precious gemstones came unfixed from jewellery settings when the warm water dissolved the vegetable-based adhesive.
Amid all the busyness and excitement, it was lovely to sit quietly when the tour finished. To breathe in the ambience and to dream of those days. And who knows what discoveries about the site might come to light in the future with further excavations.
With the last few hours diminishing fast, there was only enough time to see the curved Royal Crescent and the Circus. The two groups of architecturally famous buildings are a few hundred yards apart and were constructed between 1754 and 1775. Outside one house, a talented young woman in blue strummed a harp to the delight of a small crowd.
We sat on grass nearby and listened in awe – the perfect finale of a memorable trip!
Until my next blog post,
Sue. X
I’m glad you enjoyed Bath. When Pete and I met he lived in the top flat right beside the Abbey so the Churchyard and Parade Gardens were our stomping ground. The flat was above the London Camera Exchange on the right of the Abbey with your back to the Parade Gardens.
We love returning particularly to the Bath Lit Festival but have not yet been into Toppings. Shame on us!
Lovely to hear from you. Bath must have been an amazing place to live. As well as all the locations I mentioned in my blog post, we also relaxed on seats in front of the Abbey. The square was cool in the evenings and a tranquil spot. During the day we watched entertainers performing there. I must look into going to Bath Lit’ Fest’ and have been wondering about returning for the Christmas market. Best wishes, Sue. X