How could I have not written about Polperro before? There’s my blog post from five years ago about the Cornish fishing village’s celebrated Shell House, titled Thank you, Mr and Mrs Puckey, but nothing else, and I’ve been there numerous times. Occasionally, with our young grandson, especially one summer when we joined a steady flow of visitors at the model village before spending a few hours on the tiny beach with an intriguing story. The renowned smuggler Willy Wilcox in the 18th century stored contraband in the cavern overlooking the shore. An extremely convenient location, as he lived in one of the cottages on the rocky rise above, with its legendary secret tunnel connecting the property and cave. But sadly, the illegal entrepreneur is thought to have drowned in there too.

I wondered if the sea glass glistening on the shingle was associated with the purloined castoff empty brandy, rum and gin bottles from then. Although it’s more likely to originate from pubs around the waterfront, many of which are steeped in history. It didn’t take us long to collect some of the English Channel’s briny-tumbled gems brought in with the waves to take home.

On our recent outing, the beach was temporarily closed, as were many of the shops this season. However, there are plenty of other spots to explore, and Polperro in winter is special.

The tide was out; the boats looked enchanting, as if they had been toppled randomly in the mud. They bestow a splash of colour to nature’s softer hues in the 13th-century harbour, its quayside stacked with rustic lobster and crab pots.

I never tire of admiring the white cottages, with quirky flower containers and teeny outside spaces, and as always, we walked up the valley to have a gull’s eye view of the coastal scenery. In fact, at the top, one of the amusing birds kept its eye on us, blinking and strutting boldly, as if posing as I took its photograph, before we headed back downhill. Taking a quick glimpse of the Shell House as we passed by, it was on to the Crumplehorn Inn and Mill for a ginger beer and to warm up.

Until next time,
Sue. X