It was exhilarating returning to Wheal Coates on the South West Coast Path. I’ve tramped between Chapel Porth and St Agnes on a few occasions and it’s one of my favourite trails.
The afternoon was windy but blessed by sun illuminating the Cornish tin industry remains. Behind tumbledown engine houses, the Atlantic Ocean gushes at the bottom of the cliffs, and when rollers are high, light shines through the top like aquamarine gemstones.
Mining at the location goes back to the Middle Ages. However, the ruins seen today date from 1872 until 1914, and are now home to much wildlife. Bats roost inside the warm stacks and lizards scurry over the stonework and bask in the summer heat.
The Cornish mining heritage has fascinated me for decades and whenever I’m in an area where remnants grace the landscape, I can’t miss seeing them. They have inspired projects too, such as a watercolour picture, and pottery engine house models that I’ve made. I even found myself writing a short story set around one. One Misty Night is published on this website.
Most spectacular of all at Wheal Coates is the Towanroath Shaft pumping engine house which was restored by the National Trust in the 1970s. It was one of the first buildings on the site in 1872 when its steam engine extracted water from almost 200 metres deep, way below sea level. As yet, I’ve only captured its magnificence with my camera, but maybe I’ll use the photographs for another creative purpose in the future.
There’s a bench nearby where yellow gorse fragrances the breeze with the essence of vanilla. A peaceful spot to relax and soak up the ambience. I visualised bygone days when the area would have been a hive of industry and extremely noisy. Machinery clunked. Huge Cornish stamps crushed the tin ore before being sorted on the dressing floors, and wooden trucks clattered industrial lodes away.
Miners and labourers worked hard, but I hope they had the energy and found a spare spell or two to appreciate the ocean views. Small thanks for their difficult working conditions, especially those toiling dangerously below ground.
Until next time,
Sue. X