A church spire, craggy peaks and a gossamer of purple mist. All to be expected when sailing toward a town in the Scottish Highlands on the 9th day of our British Isles cruise.

It was tricky deciding where to go, so we booked a coach excursion. Being driven to places chosen by an experienced tour operator made it easier and was more rewarding.

The coach pulled out of Invergordon to the first stop: Inverness, capital of the Highlands. We were dropped off beside St Andrew’s Cathedral; the grounds were thronging with vendors setting up stalls for a makers market. Perfect. We planned to go later when business started.

After a quick look inside the cathedral, we mooched to the city a short walk away. River views stretch in both directions. The River Ness threads under bridges and past the castle, where Robert the Bruce, Mary Queen of Scots and Bonnie Prince Charlie are woven into its past.

The main thoroughfare winds below. Tartan, whisky and tins of shortbread fill the shop windows, but the Fragrances of the Isle of Skye prompted an early Christmas purchase. The Scottish pine candle’s fresh, festive vibes will enhance our home at Christmas, and I can’t wait to start burning it.

In no time at all, the assigned hour and a half had almost disappeared. There were ten minutes to spare for a wander around the Makers Market. Cushions and fashion accessories skilfully crafted in tweed were beautiful and tempting. A stallholder offered a sample of confectionery. Mr Word Loft declined, but I have a sweet tooth, and the caramelly Scottish Tablet, comparable to fudge but with a firmer consistency, was scrumptious. And of course, I bought a bagful.

I was surprised at the next location, Culloden Battlefield. I had always believed combat was between the English and the Scots. Our tour guide explained that Hanoverians and Stuarts fought over who should rule Scotland. English and Scottish warriors wrangled beside each other in both armies. Not only a site of significant historical interest, but sadly it is a memorial to the 1600 men who lost their lives in 1746.

It is difficult to envision the trauma entrenched in the land. Now peaceful, tourists breathe in history as they roam the fields and the area outside of Leanach Cottage, similar to the one used as the soldiers’ field hospital.

Castles feature dramatically over Scotland’s landscape. On approach, Cawdor Castle’s architecture appears younger than it is, but I noticed a gilt-decorated coat of arms, dated 1672. However, it is much older and believed to have been built around a legendary holly tree 600 years ago.

Each room’s furnishings are sumptuous, with bright décor. Quite unexpected compared to the usual rich, but time-worn, tapestries and dark wood in other historical fortresses.

Lawns and flowerbeds are well kept and slope down to Cawdor Burn, roving and tumbling at the bottom of a hill. The flow was tinted red, which looked odd, but I found out this is caused by iron oxide seeping naturally from rocks and earth.

The walled garden was an explosion of colour, the maze looked fun, and a bagpiper played us farewell before we moved on. Amazing Grace was a splendid rendition.

Passing swathes of heather and pink willowherb drifting over the countryside, we arrived at the attraction I was most looking forward to seeing: Loch Ness. But we were only there for ten minutes, with the famous setting glimpsed over a stone wall. The waters were serene, the foliage verdant, the hope of seeing a legend intense. Nessie didn’t show up, but I fancied she was out there somewhere lurking in the depths, and who knows, maybe she was.

Best wishes,
Sue. X